Episode 116: Phill Hargreaves (Part 2)

Cycling from the UK to Australia (via Everest Base Camp!) and Back Again

This is part two of my conversation with guest Phill Hargreaves Hargreaves, who embarked on a monumental cycling adventure in 1984 that took him from the UK to Australia and back again. You can check out part one here.

Continuing the Journey Solo

After successfully reaching Everest Base Camp, Phill was faced with a decision. His friend Dave who had accompanied him on the journey this far, had been struck with illness and was heading back to the UK. Knowing that he may not be returning to this part of the world in the near future, Phill made the decision that he would continue the journey onwards to Australia.

Cultural Encounters and Personal Growth

Traveling by bike allowed Phill to immerse himself in the cultures he encountered, meeting people from all walks of life. He discovered that traveling on two wheels often breaks down barriers, presenting opportunities for meaningful cultural exchanges. This mode of travel also provided Phill with insights into the simplicity of life in various regions, showing how happiness often transcends material wealth.

Facing Unpredictable Challenges

Phill’s journey was not without its hurdles. Initially he had planned to cycle through India, but due to teh assassination of Indira Ghandi, he had to change his route. Instead he took a flight to Myanmar – and gained some huge insights from a country that had been shielded off from the West.

From Myanmar Phill continued on south, and he recalls quite a boat journey to cross the Malacca Strait! Again a rugged cultural experience on a boat equipped with no real facilities. Following that boat journey Phill continued to explore Indonesia – recounting some amazing experiences exploring the terrain – including cycling right up to the Caldera at Mt Bromo!

The Wild West – Working on a Prawn Trawler

After getting struck by a scooter in Bali – thankfully unscathed! – Phill would eventually make his way to Darwin in Australia. He quickly talked his way into a job assisting on a prawn trawler and within an hour he was off to sea for months on the Gulf of Carpentaria. :Phill described this experience as ‘the Wild West’ and the antics that went on at sea were quite a story to listen to!

The Decision to Cycle Home to the U.K.

Phill had made enough money in Australia that cycling back to the U.K was feasible. He toured through Australia, making his way down the centre to Uluru before deciding he had enough of the Australian Desert. He got to the East coast and cycled down there as well before making his way to N.Z. Once there he came off his bike and injured his shoulder. He was able to recouperate and then on hearing China had opened up to tourists he quickly made the decision – he would head home via China.

China in the Mid 1980s

Travelling through China was an incredible experience. The language barrier was difficult to navigate as it was totally unrecognisable. At one point, he inadvertently cycled through a Chinese military base, leading to a tense encounter with local authorities. He was put under house arrest and then almost ended up in prison. This and other unexpected events required Phill to constantly adapt and find solutions, honing his problem-solving skills and resilience. Such experiences highlight the unpredictable nature of long-distance bicycle touring and the resilience required to overcome these challenges.

Trans-Siberian Express

Having explored China and Tibet Phill returned to Nepal once more before deciding to catch the Trans-Siberian Express to get back to Europe. An incredible train journey – looking over the endless landscapes of the Steppes. Arriving in Moscow to eat caviar and drink champagne in Red Square – quite the experience. As was entering Berlin and his reflections on what Checkpoint Charlie was like was also an insight into the tension of the times.

A Return To the U.K. – Three Years Later

It would be almost three years when Phill finally returned back to his family home in the U.K. But there was no welcoming party waiting for him. Owing to the times and the inability for quick communications, his family didn’t even know he was back in the country.

A Transformative Experience

Phill’s reflections on his journey reveal a deep level of personal transformation. The adventure equipped him with a unique perspective on life, emphasising the importance of adaptability, self-reliance, and simplification. As Phill puts it, the journey provided him with the confidence to handle life’s challenges, reminding us that it’s often about the journey and not the destination.

Inspiring a Family of Adventurers

It’s no suprise that this journey taken by Phill – as well as those taken by his wife Ali – have inspired his sons to embark on their own travels. His son Jamie is currently partway through re-tracing Phill’s original journey. I interviewed him for his own episode and you can listen to it here. His other son Olly will also be embarking on his own cycle tour – a journey that will take him from the U.K. to Singapore and he leaves mid April 2025. You can follow Olly via his instagram account – @Sagas.Of_Olly.Hargreaves

For more inspiring stories and cycling adventures, follow Seek Travel Ride on your favourite podcast platform and tune in to new episodes each and every week.

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